Granada...tierra sonada por mi

Flamenco in Sacramonte!

First of all...Look at that face. Second of all, a couple of nights ago we went to the Sacramonte district in the Albaicin for a Flamenco 'espectaculo'. Amazing views of Alhambra. The "Zapateado" or percussion done with the feet-blew me away, as did the singing and emotion in their facial expressions.The show was in this small, narrow cave with framed pictures of Flamenco performers who have performed there and golden pots and bowls hanging on the walls. The music and ambience was beautiful. This weekend off to Sevilla!

This whole month of July Granada hosts The "Festival Internacional de Musica y Danza". It is quite famous and a lot of well known musicians and dancers travel from around the world to perform here. There are music events happening every night in different parts of the city. The other night I was walking around and stumbled upon an open-air concert; there were four men on a stage that was illuminated with spotlights and behind the stage the cathedral stood as their backdrop-massive and majestic. They played what sounded like french gypsy music. It was so beautiful and there were so many people gathered in the plaza to listen. The Festival is also host to very famous orchestras and bands that come to perform at the Alhambra. Last night when I was feeling a bit of apartment-fever, I decided to walk up to the Alhambra to see if I could buy a ticket to go see the "Staatskapelle Berlin Orquestra" directed by Israeli-Argentine conductor Daniel Barenboim. Little did I know that you have to buy tickets for these types of concerts months in advance. So I decided to sit outside and hear what I could of the concert from the outskirts of the palace (I really couldn't hear anything). I got to talking to one woman who was waiting for her friend who was at the concert. She was so nice, and I tried soo hard to follow what she was saying. After the concert she introduced me to her friend who is a Russian ballet professor and the three of us went to the reception that was directly outside the Palace. It overlooked the whole city and was so spectacular. The Alhambra is really a magical place and being there at night was even more special. I have included a photo of the Palacio de Charles V, where the concert was held. The Palace was built in 1527 for Roman Emperor Charles V, after the "Reconquista"; this explains the Roman-style architecture. I can imagine that coming to see a musical performance here would be quite moving. Maybe if I buy a ticket today I can secure a seat for next summer....

Abaco Te

Went out with our neighbors last night. Very nice guys- one of them will be coming to Boston in August to study Astronomy at Harvard! He wanted to know what to expect and I told him: cold, screaming men with beards in Red Sox garb, and the hilarious accent. He was so proud of himself when he finally mastered "Yah Dude"...he sounded perfect. I think he will be just fine in Bostonia. I am excited to show him around in the fall! Yesterday Caitlin and I want to the Albaizin, which is the neighborhood around the Alhambra. I had read about a "teteria"- a tea house- in that area that looked and sounded really great. We trekked through these amazing tiny cobblestone streets. Although they were not streets, but merely paths that sloped down and up and curved in ridiculous directions. We kept stumbling upon incredible old buildings and once in a while I would peak through the cracks between two houses and find ridiculously wonderful views of the city. We followed the sounds of people to guide us to civilization and right as we were admitting to how lost we were, I heard people laughing and looked to my right. In the middle of no where-sitting on the edge of a tiny little road was "Abaco Te", the teteria that I had wanted to go to! We creaked open the door and inside was soo nice! A woman greeted us and we went upstairs to where there were little tables and stools, amazing murals on the walls and big windows with brilliant sunlight. There was another staircase that led to a third floor where there as an outside terrace looking over Granada. WOW. There were only a few people there. We sat on the second floor and ordered Peach and Melon "Granizadas"- a fruit smoothie type drink with milk and we shared a banana and chocolate crepe. Our stay was so pleasant and I couldn't believe we actually had found this place. There was this beautiful completely-white cat that was wondering around and kept moving from place to place, finding rays of sun to sleep under. We stayed for quite some time, then unfortunately had leave to make it home for dinner. I can't wait to go back there.
I have posted some of the drawings I've been doing. I have also added the link to Abacote's website (up on the right)...not only is the place really great, but their website is awesome.

Vamos a comer?

Right now I am sitting in bed enjoying a relaxing Siesta. I love how Siesta is a legit part of the culture here and people are expected to simply come home and take a couple hours from their day to unwind--taking a siesta reminds me to enjoy my day in a new way...it is a precious time to think that does not exist in the US. In the US the pace is hurried and there is simply no time to think. Anyway,
I am sitting here and my belly is completely full with Maria's delicious food. (A cous-cous type dish with cut up apples and sausage.) And I mean completely full. My first night here, it became quite clear to me that my meal plan would change drastically. Being used to eating a small portion, I was overwhelmed when Maria set my plate in front of me. There was so much food on my plate that I wasn't even sure there was a plate underneath. I ate what I could and set my fork down and sighed-feeling content. I looked up and Maria was glaring at me. "Tienes que comer toda" she said. Translation: "You have to eat all of it". I looked over at Caitlin nervously and her mouth was pursed shut trying not to smile. I slowly picked up my fork and began eating again...until I had finished all of it. At the time I resented this a little bit and I did not like the fact that she was literally forcing me to eat when I really felt I could not put one more thing in my mouth. Now, after having been here for a while I understand the food culture better. There are three meals- Spaniards do not really snack throughout the day, and neither do I anymore because each meal is so fulfilling. Every time we eat, the three of us sit down together at the table. It is a time to relax and enjoy the food that Maria has prepared for us. Each meal is a treasured and respected part of the day. Now I have grown more comfortable with Maria and I find myself looking forward to coming home and the three of us sitting down to eat together. However, one thing I find particularly amusing and hilarious is the way she sneaks up on us to tell us that the food is ready. She has this ability to shuffle around the apartment making no sound at all and then all of a sudden her head pops out of no where "Vamos a comer?", she says. It scares us every time. And at meals still I will look over at Maria, and her eyes are slowly glazing our plates to see how much we have eaten. If you can imagine...a table of three people, the only the sound is our forks and knives clinking and the muffled voice of a Spanish weather woman on tv... and three sets of eyes darting nervously from plate to plate. Sometimes I pick up my fork and move it around from place to place just to watch her follow it with her eyes. Is that wrong?

Charades

Today I started classes! My school-the Centro del Lenguas Modernas and it is nestled into the back streets of Granada and I love walking up there. I am taking Historia del Arte de Espana, and Civilizacion y Cultura Espanola as well as an Intensive spanish grammar class. There are a lot of students from different summer programs in my classes and not so many Spanish kids. My Historia del Arte professor walked into class and began belting "Granada" a Mexican standard written by Augustin Lara. His voice was actually really operatic and beautiful. He continued with a slideshow of pictures of him as a boy, on which he had drawn and doodled in order to illustrate his interests and hobbies. I think I am going to enjoy him. Spent the weekend on the beach in San Jose, Almeria Spain...amazing little beach town. Unfortunately, now my body looks like a red tie dyed shirt gone wrong because I didn't rub my spf 5000 in evenly. awesome. I am finding my own ways to break through these language barriers like forcing myself to ask questions, spending time meandering around clothing stores just listen to the day-to-day language of the shoppers, watching the news with Maria (my Senora) aka watching Michael Jackson on the news with Maria- and reading my spanish book. But sometimes there is no breaking through at all...times when I have to pull objects out of my purse one by one, as if it were charades-in order to communicate with someone. I like it though. And everyday I feel myself learning. My ability to understand has already gotten so much better and playing charades is becoming less and less frequent.

GRANADA-Los Primeros Dias

In Granada now! I like it here, and I am slowly getting to know the city. My host mother lives 20 minutes walking from the center of the city and from the school, which I like- even though it is getting really really hot. I love people watching here--there is an abundance of old short nuns, confused tourists, young students, stray dogs....and really cool graffiti.

TOLEDO

Toledo yesterday on our way to Granada. Precious city that winds upward and is surrounded by Tajo River. For many years was a hub for Jews and known for its religious tolerance. There still exist beautiful old synagogues, cathedrals and churches. Very quaint city and I wish we had more time there.

MADRID

I have spent the last few days in Madrid for the orientation to my program. Our hotel was smack-dab in the center of the city on Calle Mayor. Madrid was really cool-reminds me of New York, but with more beautiful architecture. It really didn't feel like much of a culture shock to be there. We did some site seeing things such as visited El Museo Prado, La Reina Sofia to see Picasso's Guernica, El Palacio Real- with its amazing decorated rooms of Spanish Kings and Queens; Artists from all over the world were commissioned by these Kings and Queens to decorate pieces and contribute their own "spice" if you will- to these royal rooms...walking through was incredible. We also visited El Escorial which houses amazing artwork, a monastery and school, as well as the tombs of all of the Bourbon Kings and Queens of Spain....it was so cool to stand down in that room with the green coffins surrounding me on the wall with golden plaques of King Fillipe II and King Carlos V. We walked through the old library and peered out of old worn windows with incredible views--the same ones that Kings and Queens once looked out of hundreds of years ago. I love being in these places amongst such rich history!! Madrid was really great. Now off to Toledo and then Granada!

LONDON LAYOVER

My flight went well and I enjoyed my overnight at the London Heathrow Airport, although I didn't get much sleep. I found ways to entertain myself..like people watching and exploring the terminals. A driver brought me through many tunnels and at first I freaked out when he started driving on the wrong side of the road...I almost said something, and then I realized I was in London. I loved that the women's bathroom signs have hoop skirts...